In a collection that was shocking in more ways than one, starting with just plain shockingly beautiful, we were in for the surprise of a lifetime. Vera’s signature couture layering, distressing and louche attitude were all present in spades. But what we weren’t prepared for was her heart-racing, jaw-dropping new mood of mystery. Citing ‘witchcraft’ in her show notes, Vera’s girls embodied the spirit of her vision with cool-girl imperfect hair, stark nude faces and other-worldly trance-like gaits set to silence. Only the clicking of the girls’ heels were heard.
The show began with a deep, warm nude hue that almost glowed in its intensity. Half a dozen variations in this incredible shade kept us spellbound, holding our breath in anticipation of what might come next. The first hint of darkness appeared with two amazing nude and black gowns. Still no white…then the darkest of dark black dresses came down the runway. One after the other. Seriously spooky.
Deep, dark jet gowns mixed in frothy, frivolous fabrics like tumbled tulle, washed organza, stretch chiffon and Chantilly lace worked their magic on silhouettes that were subtly, superbly sexy. Incredibly fitted mermaids and corsets hugged the models’ bodies, showing off Vera’s beautiful S-curve gowns. Deep, plunging necklines and plays of sheer and opaque revealed and concealed the body.
Vera’s singularly spectacular use of unimaginable technical work mystified us throughout the show with the quiet unveiling of degrade laddering, laser-cut chiffon scalloping, asymmetrically sheared flanging and crushed, honeycomb tulles. If it sounds complex, that’s because it is. But no need to dissect the parts, because the sum of their whole was greater than each individual detail. Everything worked flawlessly in tandem to create a new moment in fashion, a new moment in dressing the bride.
Most certainly, Vera Wang cast a wicked spell on us. It has yet to be broken.